After the colorful presentations at New York Fashion Week and the intense, fashion forward spectacle of London Fashion Week, it was time for one of the most anticipated fashion displays in the world: Milan Fashion Week. “Once upon a time in Sicily” was printed on the invitations to the Dolce & Gabbana fashion show. This fairytale description made sense as soon as the models appeared on the catwalk wearing coats embroidered with red apples, dresses in pastel shades with large owls and squirrels, or graceful swans printed on airy shirts. No trace of the Italian baroque style of recent seasons.
Katy Perry and Rita Ora were seen at the Moschino presentation, which marked the debut of new artistic director Jeremy Scott, who returned to the rebellious spirit of the Italian label. In a nod to pop culture, both Katy and Rita shared the stage with Sponge Bob and McDonalds, an amusing stunt by the naughty brand.
We found a totally different point of view in Salvatore Ferragamo’s fall collection. Although the label didn’t show great innovations, its classic presentation is further evidence that elegance is at the core of Salvatore Ferragamo. Windbreakers, capes and jackets featuring tartan patterns in various shades of gray and neutral colors are all the rage this season. The show continued with bright, sensual dresses in discrete animal prints. Knee-high skirts were paired with black high heel boots.
Gucci dazzled with a new collection of sublime creations inspired by the 1960s. The short leather dresses dyed in pastel colors and évasé finish gave way to stunning buttoned coats, combined with straight pants and patterned python leather boots. The models’ hair and makeup reminded us of the iconic Brigitte Bardot, a trend we hope to see in the streets come fall.
Rainer Fassbinder’s 1972 iconic film The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant was the inspiration for Prada, featuring satin gowns, high boots, vibrantly colored short fur coats and transparent evening dresses combined with extra large coats. The show began with a stark image of top model Natasha Poly on a dark stage while a live orchestra played on.
Peter Dundas, Pucci‘s creative director, returned to bring us a sensual collection of stylized gowns( short and snug or long and vaporous) that hugged the body with earth color embroidery. Very feminine, but with subtle rocker aesthetics, the garments were accessorized with distinctive high boots.
Roberto Cavalli, faithful to his philosophy of “more is better”, presented, for fall 2014, sensual designs that highlighted the female body. The staging featured a pond surrounded by a circle of fire.
Blue, red, white, black and hints of yellow were the predominant colors used by the great Donatella Versace in her new collection. Her dresses never fail to show her hallmark: sculpting the feminine figure with daring cuts, sinuous zippers and the emblematic Medusa, the brand’s logo. Versace has long secured its market niche of faithful clients, and Donatella continues to advance the legacy of the late Gianni.
At the complete opposite of the spectrum, Jil Sander showed a flawless, soft collection. The well structured garments were easy and comfortable, without losing the charm of its impeccable patterns. The show began with a selection of dresses in white and other soft hues, which evolved into brighter colors. Jackets, business suits and cocktail dresses become, in the hands of the designer, timeless, elegant and always fashionable.
To end Milan Fashion Week, Giorgio Armani dazzled his audience with customary elegant creations in tones of gray and lime. Armani introduced sophisticated, youthful looks with colorful coats and ethereal fabrics. For evening, we saw impeccable dresses, which can make any woman look classic and delicate. An extraordinary collection worthy of the great Italian couturier’s signature. ■