Allegory of Love, L’Wren Scott’s Fall/Winter collection, is dripping in gold. Sure, there are rich hues of auburn, classic black, rich emerald tones, vibrant purples, and royal blues, but gold steals the show. Inspired by Gustav Klimt’s Golden Phase and his muse, Adele Bauer, Scott has made a perfectly tailored collection that is as elegant as it is rock and roll.
Allegory of Love showcases Scott’s immaculate craftsmanship and intelligent use of prints and embroidery. Her inspiration is evident. Golden curlicues, identical to those in Klimt’s work, adorn sharp coats, pants and dazzling gowns. Along with intense prints, Scott amps up the collection with bold colors and body-hugging silhouettes. These dresses don’t act alone, though; they were made to show off a woman’s figure. This, in itself, is a tribute to Klimt, whose paintings often celebrated the female form.
The golden details in her creations give the line a magnificent sense of fantasy. Gold leafing lends a hand to details in the clothing and carries on to adorn the shoes. Scott’s preference is 23 karats, which seems to provide the perfect luster. Gold leafing is an old technique, and one that Klimt, himself, used. He was gilding at the turn of the century.
There are form fitting dresses and skirts, cut right below the knee. One standout dress is solid black, with a gold serpent strategically wrapped around the body. This is one of Scott’s versions of Klimt’s Red Woman Gold Snake, and a successful one, at that. Another dress pays homage the famous painting; a long, fishtail gown incorporates the beautiful colors in the painting and the slithering serpent, making it a more literal interpretation.
Allegory of Love also has a slew of opulent gowns that shimmer from head to toe. One gown introduces multiple shades of gold with scalloped edging in black, hugs the body and screams rock and roll grandeur. Other gowns are accented with embroidery, colorful prints and even more dashes of gold, while another is detailed with quilted leather.
Black is never boring in Scott’s collection. Black on black, yes, but the final products are luxurious. Gold details: buttons, belts, trim and, in one dress, a bowtie, adorn the other black pieces.
Apart from the literal details from Klimt’s artwork that Scott has introduced in this collection, she has also taken inspiration from his personal life. She compares his love for Adele Bauer to her love for her work. That love particularly shines through in this collection, and in this case, all that glitters is 23-karat gold. ■